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1Brewing Sake in Japan Is Becoming a Woman's Game—AgainLasa Kilalaon’ny Vehivavy Ny Fanafangaroana “Sake” any Japana—Indray
2Master brewer - or toji - Emi Machida at the 130-year-old Machida Brewery in Gunma, Japan.Master brewer - na toji - Emi Machida ao amin'ny Machida Brewery 130 taona any Gunma, Japana.
3Under her direction, her family's premium sake has won gold seven times at the Annual Japan Sake Awards.Teo ambany fitantanany, im-pito nahazo volamena tamin'ny Loka Fanome Isan-taona momba ny Sake any Japana ny sake tsara indrindra vokarin'ny fianakaviany.
4Credit: Naomi Gingold.Loharano: Naomi Gingold.
5Used with PRI's permissionFanomezandàlan'ny PRI
6This article and radio report by Naomi Gingold for The World originally appeared on PRI.org on September 11, 2015, and is republished here as part of a content-sharing agreement.Ity lahatsoratra ity sy ny tatitry ny onjam-peo avy amin'i Naomi Gingold ho an'ny Le Monde dia niseho voalohany tao amin'ny PRI.org tamin'ny 11 Septambra 2015, ary avoaka eto indray toy ny fifanarahana fifampizarana votoaty.
7For a long time, sake brewing in Japan was an industry made up of owners who didn't brew the sake themselves, and migrant master brewers, called Toji, who would live at distilleries in the winter brewing season and then go home.Nandritra ny fotoana ela, ny fanamboarana sake any Japana dia indostria natsangan'ny tompony saingy tsy ny tenan'izy ireo no nampifangaro ny sake, sy ireo “master brewers” mpifindra monina, antsoina hoe Toji, izay monina any amin‘ny orinasa fanamboarana zavapisotro amin'ny vanim-potoana ririnina fanamboarana izany ary mody any an-tranony rehefa avy eo.
8Listen to this story on PRI.org »Henoy ity tantara itao amin'ny PRI.org
9But the industry's been in decline.Listen to this story on PRI.org »
10The number of people drinking sake's gone down, the number of sake breweries in Japan has fallen to about half the number there were in the 1970s, and master brewers are getting older and are often unwilling to change habits to reach new or younger customers.Nefa nitotongana ny indostria. Nihena ny isan'ny olona misotro sake, nidina ho antsasany ny isan'ny fanafangaroana any Japana raha oharina tamin'izay nitranga tany amin'ny taona 70, ary efa miha-nahazo taona ireo “master brewers”, matetika tsy te-hanova fahazarana mba hahazoana mpanjifa vaovao sy tanora kokoa.
11Emi Machida, the Toji, or master sake brewer, at Machida Brewery in Gunma Japan says, “in order to stay alive, we decided to become an owner-brewer distillery; make the kind of sake we really wanted to make and drink.Emi Machida, ilay Toji, na “master sake brewer”, ao amin'ny Machida Brewery any Gunma Japana milaza hoe: “nanapa-kevitra ny ho tonga tomponà toeram-pampifangaroana iray izahay mba hahafanay mivelona, manao ny karazana sake izay tena tianatsika atao sy sotroina.
12So 10 years ago we stopped using the migrant brewer system.”Noho izany 10 taona lasa izay no nampitsaharanay ny rafitra mampiasa “brewer” ny mpifindra monina.”
13Her family's owned the brewery for more than 130 years, but she is the first Toji in the family.Tompom'ilay toeram-pamokarana nandritra ny 130 taona mahery ny fianakaviany, nefa izy no Toji voalohany ao amin'ny fianakaviana.
14Machida is at the forefront of a rising owner-brewer movement in Japan.Lohalaharana eo amin'ny hetsika mipongatry ny “brewer” sady tompony ao Japana i Machida.
15But Machida is also unusual, because she is one of the few women Toji in what's long been a men-only world.Fa tsy toy ny mahazatra ihany koa i Machida, satria iray amin'ireo vehivavy Toji vitsy ao anatin'ny tontolo nanjakan'ny lehilahy hatry ny ela ihany koa izy.
16In ancient times, some say sake-brewing was actually a women's craft.Fahiny, milaza ny sasany fa tena asan'ny vehivavy ny fanamboarana sake.
17In fact, the word Toji, when written in old characters, can actually mean lady.Raha ny marina, ny teny hoe Toji, rehefa soratana amin'ny endri-tsoratra tranainy, afaka tena midika hoe vehivavy tokoa.
18A display of Machida Brewery's award-winning sake.Fampiratiana ireo sake an'ny Machida Brewery nahazo loka.
19Credit: Naomi Gingold.Loharano: Naomi Gingold.
20Used with PRI's permissionFanomezandàlan'ny PRI
21But when Machida's grandfather ran the brewery, Machida says, “women were seen as dirty, unclean, so he would say women can't enter the sacred brewery.”Fa tamin'ny nitantanan'ny dadaben'i Machida ny teram-pamokarana, nilaza i Machida hoe: ” maloto , tsy madio no nahitàna ny vehivavy, araka izany nilaza tamiko izy fa tsy afaka miditra ao amin'ny toeram-pamokarana masina ny vehivavy.”
22Sake is often used in religious rituals in Japan, and Machida Brewery, like just about all sake breweries, is blessed by a Shinto priest and decorated with sacred Shinto ropes.Matetika ampiasaina amin'ny fombafomba ara-pivavahana ny sake ao Japana, ary notsofin'ny pretra shintoista rano sy voaravaka tamin'ny tadin'ny Shinto masina ny Brewery Machida, toy ny ankamaroan'ny toeram-pamokarana sake rehetra.
23Growing up, Machida never imagined becoming a sake brewer.Tsy nieritreritra velively ny ho lasa mpamokatra sake i Machida, rehefa lasa olon-dehibe.
24She went to college in Tokyo, but like a lot of women, found herself tracked into a dead-end career path, bringing tea and making copies.Nianatra tany amin'ny oniversite tany Tokyo izy, fa toy ny vehivavy maro, tratry ny fandriky ny làlan-tsokina teo amin'ny sehatry ny asa izy, mpitondra dite sy mpanao dika mitovy.
25And the idea of going back to Gunma to carry on the family business was something she'd always thought about, especially as the eldest daughter.Ary zavatra noeritreretiny foana ny hiverina tany Gunma mba hanohy ny fandraharahan'ny fianakaviany, indrindra fa izy no vavimatoa.
26When she started out as Toji, things didn't always go smoothly.Tsy nandeha mora foana ny zava-drehetra rehefa nanomboka toy ny Toji izy.
27Her all-male employees wouldn't listen to her.Tsy nety nihaino azy ireo rehetra lehilahy mpiasany.
28“If I said put this here, they would move it to a different spot.“Raha tahiny aho nanao hoe: apetraho eto ity, afindran'izy ireo any amin'ny toerana hafa izany.
29Things just wouldn't turn out the way I asked,” she says.Tsy araky ny nangatahiko ny fandehan-javatra,” hoy izy.
30“In the end, everyone would leave at 5, and I'd be up ‘til the middle of the night redoing things.”“Tamin ‘ny farany, te-hirava amin'ny 5 ora ny tsirairay, ary izaho mbola mijanona hatramin'ny misasakalina mamerina ny raharaha.”
31She'd also hear that there were a lot of customers who didn't want to buy sake from a non-veteran and especially a non-male brewer.Nandre Ihany koa izy fa maro ny mpanjifa no tsy te-hividy sake vokarin'ny tsy zà-draharaha, ary indrindra fa tsy lahy ny “brewer”.
32But now, she doesn't hear that anymore.Fa tsy mandre izany intsony izy ankehitriny.
33Since she took over as Toji 10 years ago, Machida Brewery's premium sake has won gold at the Annual Japan Sake Awards seven times.Hatramin'ny nandraisany ny fitantanana toy ny Toji, 10 taona lasa izay, nahazo volamena im-pito ny sake tsara kalitao indrindra vokarin'ny Brewery Machida tamin'ny Loka Fanome Isan-taona momba ny Sake any Japana.
34That never happened with the old Toji.Tsy nitranga mihitsy izany tamin'ilay Toji tranainy.
35To make sake, you start by polishing off the outer layer of rice; how much you take off is key in deciding how premium of a sake you get.Mba hanamboarana sake, manomboka amin'ny fikosehana fonon'akotrim-bary ianao; tena manana ny lanjany ny hoe hatraiza no hoesorinao amin'ny fakàna fanapahankevitra hoe sake manao ahoana ny kalitaony ho azonao.
36Then the rice is washed, steamed and (this is the short version) fermented.Avy eo sasàna ny vary; andrahoina amin'ny entona ary (ity no karazany fohy) ahotrika.
37Little things matter a lot: what rice you use, what kind of water, how often and at what stages or micro-stages you adjust the temperature.Misy lanjany betsaka ny zavatra madinika: inona no vary ampiasainao, inona no karazana rano, impiry ary inona no dingana na dingana madinika hanitsianao ny maripàna.
38It takes about 45 days to make one vat of sake.Maharitra tokony ho 45 andro ny fanaovana sake iray sinibe.
39Today, as the master brewer Machida doesn't just oversee employees and equipment and taste the sake, from day one she is in the warehouse, hauling around tons of rice, spending a couple days and nights in a 100-plus degree room to make the fermentation starter, carrying 30-pound buckets of water up and down tall ladders, and mixing huge 3000-6000 liter vats of fermenting rice.Amin'izao fotoana izao, satria tsy mionona fotsiny amin'ny fanarahana maso ny mpiasa sy ny fitaovana ary ny fanandramana ny sake fotsiny ny “master brewer” Machida, hatramin'ny andro voalohany naha-tao amin'ny trano fanatobiana entana azy, mitatitra vary amin'ny taonina, mandany andro sy alina vitsivitsy ao amin'ny efitrano mafàna mihoatra ny 100 degre mba hanomboka ny fanotrehana, mitondra siny feno rano 15 kg miakatra sy midina amin'ny tohatra avo, ary mampifangaro sinibe goavana 3000-6000 litatra fanotrehana ny vary.
40It's back-breaking work.Asa mandreraka izany.
41To learn the art, Machida studied with older brewers and from books.Mba hahaizany ny zava-kanto, nianatra niaraka tamin'ireo “brewers” efa zokiny sy tamin'ny boky i Machida.
42“I'm still studying, but, essentially, the most important thing is to make something that you like and want to drink,” she says.“Mbola mianatra foana aho, nefa, amin'ny ankapobeny, ny manao zavatra ankafizinareo sy tianareo ho sotroina no tena zava-dehibe indrindra,” hoy izy.
43She respects the old traditions but also thinks it's important to experiment with new ways of doing things.Manaja ny fomba amam-panao taloha izy, fa mihevitra ihany koa fa zava-dehibe ny manandrana amin'ny fomba vaovao ny fanaovan-javatra.
44She often goes to monthly study events with other Toji, and she's also a part of what's called “Kura Josei No Kai,” The Women's Sake Industry Group.Mandeha matetika miaraka amin'ny Toji hafa any amin'ny hetsika atao isam-bolana momba ny fandalinana izy, ary anisan'ilay antsoina hoe “Kura Josei No Kai” ihany koa izy, Vondron'ny Indostria Vehivavy Mpanao Sake.
45And support from them, she says, especially the other female Toji has been key.Ary ny fanohanana avy amin'izy ireo, hoy izy, indrindra ilay Toji vavy hafa no fanalahidy.
46Women toji - master brewers - at the 2014 ‘Kura Josei Summit,' the Japanese Women's Sake Industry Group.Vehivavy toji - master brewers - tao amin'ny ‘fihaonana an-tampony Kura Josei 2014,' ilay Vondron'ny Indostria Vehivavy Japoney Mpanao Sake.
47Credit: Courtesy Japanese Women's Sake Industry Group.Loharano: Vondron'ny Indostria Vehivavy Japoney Mpanao Sake Courtesy.
48Used with PRI's permissionFanomezandàlan'ny PRI
49“Joining the group gave me courage and energy,” she adds.“Nanome herim-po sy tanjaka ho ahy ny fidirana tao amin'ilay vondrona, “hoy ihany izy.
50She realized she wasn't alone and that everyone was facing the same issues.Nahatsapa izy fa tsy irery, ary niatrika izany olana izany ny olona rehetra.
51There are now 20-some women Toji across Japan, and Machida often does events with them.Misy 20 eo ho eo ankehitriny ny vehivavy Toji manerana an'i Japana, ary matetika manao hetsika miaraka amin'izy ireo i Machida.
52She points out that being a female in the business can have its benefits.Nomarihany fa mety misy tombony raha vehivavy no manao raharaham-barotra.
53Because it's unusual, the media and customers sometimes pay more attention.Satria tsy mahazatra izany, matetika liana bebe kokoa ny media sy ny mpanjifa.
54Sometimes older male brewers are more excited to teach them.Indraindray mazoto kokoa amin'ny fampianarana azy ireo ny “brewers” lahy efa be taona.
55But most importantly, now, Machida has respect because of her delicious sake.Fa ny zava-dehibe indrindra, ankehitriny, hajain'ny olona i Machida noho ny sake-ny matsiro.
56Yeah.Yah.
57Sorry you can't taste it via our story.Miala tsiny fa tsy afaka hanandrana azy amin'ny alalan'ny tantara ianareo.
58But you can find it in Tokyo, most areas of Japan, and maybe some day in the future, she'll sell it abroad.Fa mety ho hitanareo any Tokyo, any amin'ny ankamaroan'ny faritra ao Japana, ary angamba indray andro any amin'ny hoavy, amidiny any ivelany izany.
59”That's a dream I have,” she says.”Nofiko izany,” hoy izy.