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#engpor
1Russia: Moscow's Top Secret and Other ExaggerationsRússia: O maior segredo de Moscou e outros exageros
2Moscow these days may struck one as a rather expensive city: according to the Cost of Living Survey recently conducted by Mercer Human Resource Consulting, it's “the world's most expensive city for expatriates for the second consecutive year.”Nos dias de hoje, Moscou pode chocar alguns como uma cidade um tanto cara: segundo a Pesquisa Mundial de Custo de Vida conduzida recentemente pela Mercer Consultoria de Recursos Humanos, ela é a “cidade mais cara do mundo para expatriados pelo segundo ano consecutivo.”
3To Moscow locals, however, Mercer's findings may look a bit like an exaggeration.Para os moradores, entretanto, as descobertas de Mercer parecem um pouco exageradas.
4LJ user try_baby_try explains (RUS):O usuário do LiveJournal try_baby_try explica (RUS):
5Hey you, unbelievers and the doubtful,“Hey you, unbelievers and the doubtful,
6You live inside this city, you know where to buy cheaper food and how to save money on housing.You live inside this city, you know where to buy cheaper food and how to save money on housing.
7Poor foreigners are being charged three times as much - hotels are expensive, accommodation costs them about as much per day as it does per month to you.Poor foreigners are being charged three times as much - hotels are expensive, accommodation costs them about as much per day as it does per month to you.
8This, above all, is what makes up such a high cost.This, above all, is what makes up such a high cost.
9Yes, and even cab drivers, when they see a foreigner, they demand $100 instead of 100 rubles.Yes, and even cab drivers, when they see a foreigner, they demand $100 instead of 100 rubles.” “Ei, vocês, incrédulos e indecisos,
10Speaking of the tendency to exaggerate, roughly 9,000 riot police were deployed to downtown Moscow from all over Russia on April 14, 2007 - for a comparatively small-scale event: the opposition's Dissenters' March.Vocês vivem nessa cidade, vocês sabem onde comprar comida mais barata e como poupar dinheiro com moradia. Os pobres estrangeiros estão sendo cobrados três vezes mais - os hotéis são caros, o custo da acomodação para eles por dia é o que vocês pagam por mês.
11Later, even president Vladimir Putin admitted, through a spokesman, that there had been instances of “overreaction” by the police.É isto que causa, acima de tudo, preços tão altos. Sim,e inclusive motoristas de táxi, quando vêem um estrangeiros, exigem $100 ao invés de 100 rublos.”
12And when LJ user g60, a Moscow native now living in the United States, was visiting his hometown, he happened to cross paths with Putin's motorcade twice, getting a glimpse (and a few furtive photos) of the exaggerated security measures taken to secure the president's passage through the city.Falando em tendências ao exagero, cerca de 9.000 policiais do batalhão de choque foram enviados para o centro de Moscou vindos de todas as partes da Rússia no dia 14 de Abril de 2007 para um acontecimento relativamente de menor escala: a Marcha dos Dissidentes. Mais tarde, mesmo o presidente Vladmir Putin admitiu, por meio de um porta-voz, que os policiais extrapolaram.
13E quando o usuário g60 do LJ, um nativo de Moscou agora morando nos EUA, estava visitando sua terra natal, ele por acaso cruzou com a comitiva do presidente Putin duas vezes, tendo um vislumbre (e algumas fotos furtivas) das medidas exageradas de segurança tomadas para assegurar a passagem do presidente pela cidade.
14Here's g60 story (RUS), posted on June 12:Aqui vai a história(RUS) de g60, postada no dia 12 de junho:
15Top Secret“Top Secret
16In the first three days, I ran into the president of Russia twice.In the first three days, I ran into the president of Russia twice.
17“Ran into” is not an accurate term - it was more like getting stuck in traffic because of the cordoned off streets.“Ran into” is not an accurate term - it was more like getting stuck in traffic because of the cordoned off streets.
18The first time, on the second day, my classmate and I were driving out onto [Kutuzovsky Prospekt], when a policeman with the belly as big as that of a Santa Claus began fussing around, blocked off the exit, started waving at the cars that were still on the road as if they were mosquitoes.The first time, on the second day, my classmate and I were driving out onto [Kutuzovsky Prospekt], when a policeman with the belly as big as that of a Santa Claus began fussing around, blocked off the exit, started waving at the cars that were still on the road as if they were mosquitoes.
19“We have a belief here,” my classmate told me sadly, “that if you meet the president, you'll be late.”“We have a belief here,” my classmate told me sadly, “that if you meet the president, you'll be late.”
20At last, after some 15 minutes of waiting, the president swooshed by and the traffic was restored.At last, after some 15 minutes of waiting, the president swooshed by and the traffic was restored.
21The following day, I was wandering around downtown Moscow, and when I was on [Nikitskiy Boulevard] on my way to [Arbat], I saw something that I'd only seen in Israel, on [Remembrance Day], when all traffic stops at the sound of the siren, and people step out of their cars and stand nearby.
22The following day, I was wandering around downtown Moscow, and when I was on [Nikitskiy Boulevard] on my way to [Arbat], I saw something that I'd only seen in Israel, on [Remembrance Day], when all traffic stops at the sound of the siren, and people step out of their cars and stand nearby.Here, there was no siren, but the cars stood still, and people were standing, too, because not everyone had air conditioning and the heat was well above 30 [degrees Celcius]. When I realized what was going on, I moved faster and reached [Arbatskiye Vorota] - which looked strange.
23Here, there was no siren, but the cars stood still, and people were standing, too, because not everyone had air conditioning and the heat was well above 30 [degrees Celcius].I've seen the place looking like this before, a long time ago, in 1982-84, during the funerals of [Brezhnev] & Co. - everything was cordoned off then.
24I took out my camera and made a few shots: the empty Kalininskiy [Novyi Arbat's old Soviet name] on one side and a wall made up of cars on [Vozdvizhenka] on the other side - waiting for the Chief's drive-through.
25When I realized what was going on, I moved faster and reached [Arbatskiye Vorota] - which looked strange.Soon enough, a motorcade appeared, a Mercedes Limousine surrounded by three Gelaendewagens, or whatever they are called, a very impressive sight.
26I did think it was better not to make the cops nervous, the camera was hanging on my belt, the lens was as wide-angle as it gets - and I just pushed the button a couple times, knowing that the motorcade would definitely be on the picture.
27I've seen the place looking like this before, a long time ago, in 1982-84, during the funerals of [Brezhnev] & Co. - everything was cordoned off then.[…] I was not allowed to make but one step. As soon as they all drove away, I heard this from behind my back: “Young man, your documents and your camera, please.”
28I took out my camera and made a few shots: the empty Kalininskiy [Novyi Arbat's old Soviet name] on one side and a wall made up of cars on [Vozdvizhenka] on the other side - waiting for the Chief's drive-through.I turned around and saw a minder sweating in his dark woolen suit. “Special Department for the President's Affairs, Officer Kh**yev,” the [chekist] introduced himself.
29Soon enough, a motorcade appeared, a Mercedes Limousine surrounded by three Gelaendewagens, or whatever they are called, a very impressive sight.Of course, I failed to remember the department's and the special agent's exact names.
30I did think it was better not to make the cops nervous, the camera was hanging on my belt, the lens was as wide-angle as it gets - and I just pushed the button a couple times, knowing that the motorcade would definitely be on the picture.He even half-showed me his ID, having at the same time concealed it from me carefully with his hand. […] “What's the matter, may I ask?” - “You've photographed the Secret Drive-Through (sic! - g60).
31[…] I was not allowed to make but one step.” - “What was secret about it? Look how many people there are around.
32As soon as they all drove away, I heard this from behind my back: “Young man, your documents and your camera, please.”Is it not allowed to take pictures or what?” - “Yes, sure. Show me your documents.
33I turned around and saw a minder sweating in his dark woolen suit.” - “No problem, here.” To say that he was disappointed when he saw my documents is not to say anything.
34“Where's your registration?” - “I arrived on Saturday, today is the first business day, and I'm required to get registered within three days.”
35“Special Department for the President's Affairs, Officer Kh**yev,” the [chekist] introduced himself.“Then show me the pictures you've made, please. ” - “Yes, with pleasure.”
36Novyi Arbat was on two of them from horizon to horizon and somewhere in the center there was a tiny spot - the presidential motorcade.
37Of course, I failed to remember the department's and the special agent's exact names.[…] “And this you'll have to erase.” Well, I thought, thank God for an idiot.
38He even half-showed me his ID, having at the same time concealed it from me carefully with his hand. […]Decided to play along a bit: “May I keep them, they're a memory, I haven't been here in a long time…” - “No, you're not allowed to.
39“What's the matter, may I ask?” - “You've photographed the Secret Drive-Through (sic! - g60).We won't punish you, but do erase the picture.” “Okay,” I say and push the “delete” button with a sigh.
40” - “What was secret about it?“Good bye and all the best.”
41Look how many people there are around.[…] I walked aside, took out the flash card, inserted another one.
42You see, sergeant or whatever rank you are, you'll never become a general, nor will your boss - or you'd know how many seconds it takes to restore the erased picture.
43Is it not allowed to take pictures or what?” - “Yes, sure.Here it is, this picture, Russia's Top Secret. […] [you can view the original photo here]
44I'm not going to write trite things of the “manuscripts don't burn” variety, because I have something to say on the main subject.
45Namely, that the erased photo was preceded by another one, without the motorcade on it, and neither the watchful chekist, nor his bosses found anything criminal about it:
46Show me your documents.[original photo is here]
47The current president should fear this picture a lot more, I believe - because sane people are likely to view it as an accusation.
48” - “No problem, here.”A charge of dictatorship.
49To say that he was disappointed when he saw my documents is not to say anything.Exposure of the [servants' mentality] of his own subordinates, which hasn't disappeared since the Soviet times.
50“Where's your registration?” - “I arrived on Saturday, today is the first business day, and I'm required to get registered within three days.”And this is not just about the president - it's as much about all the citizens who are prepared to tolerate this.
51In the States, I live in [the middle of nowhere, a place rarely visited by the federal government officials].
52The Republican administration doesn't even hold their election campaigns here - it's useless, considering California's [ultra-liberal political beliefs].
53Nevertheless, I happened to run into vice president Cheney once, at an intersection: I was moving towards his motorcade, and it was busy doing what everyone else was doing at the moment - waiting for green light.
54“Then show me the pictures you've made, please.It came on, and everyone continued on their way.
55And if it happened some other way, if some official seriously believed that the people are there for the government and not vice versa, then he'd quickly be dealt with the way [anti-Republican] Californians had dealt with their Democratic governor - they made him resign, replacing him with [Arnold Schwarzenegger]. […]”
56” - “Yes, with pleasure.”“O Grande Segredo
57Nos primeiros três dias, eu esbarrei no presidente da Rússia duas vezes.
58“Esbarrar” não é o termo mais preciso, foi mais como ficar preso no tráfego por causa das ruas que foram fechadas.
59A primeira vez, no segundo dia, meu colega de sala e eu estávamos dirigindo pela [Kutuzovsky Prospekt], quando um policial com uma barriga tão grande quando a do Papai Noel começouum rebuliço, bloqueou a saída e começou a abanar os carros que ainda estavam na pista como se fossem mosquitos.
60“Temos uma crença aqui”, meu colega falou tristemente, “de que se você encontrar o presidente, você irá se atrasar.”
61Enfim, depois de 15 minutos esperando, o presidente passou voando e o tráfego foi viabilizado.
62No dia seguinte, eu estava perambulando pelo centro de Moscou e quando estava na [Nikitskiy Boulevard] a caminho da [Arbat], vi algo que só hvia visto em Israel, no [Dia da Lembrança], quando todo o tráfego pára o som de uma sirene e as pessoas saem de seus carros e ficam paradas ao lado do carro.
63Aqui, não havia sirene, mas os carros estavam parados e as pessoas também, porque nem todo mundo tinha ar condicionado e o calor estava bem acima de 30 [graus Celcius].
64Quando me dei conta do que se passava, caminhei mais rápido e alcancei a [Arbatskiye Vorota], que parecia estranha.
65Já havia visto o local com essa aparência antes, há muito tempo, entre 1982 e 1984, durante os funerais de [Brezhnev] & Cia; todas as ruas estavam fechadas.
66Puxei minha câmera e tirei algumas fotos: a vazia Kalininskiy [o antigo nome soviético da Novyi Arbat] de um lado e um muro feito de carros na [Vozdvizhenka] do outro lado - esperando a passagem do Chefe.
67Logo, a comitiva presidencial apareceu, uma limosine Mercedes rodeada por três Gelaendewagens, ou seja lá qual for o nome, uma cena impressionante.
68Achei que era melhor não deixar os tirs nervosos, a câmera estava pendurada em meu cinto, a lente estava com a lente o mais aberto possível.
69Novyi Arbat was on two of them from horizon to horizon and somewhere in the center there was a tiny spot - the presidential motorcade.Assim, eu só apertei o botão algumas vezes, sabendo que a comitiva seria certamente fotografada. […] Não me deram permissão para dar mais mais de um passo.
70Assim que todos foram embora, ouvi isso vindo detrás de mim: “Meu jovem, seus documentos e sua câmera, por favor”.
71Eu dei meia-volta e vi um guarda-costas suando em seu terno escuro de algodão.
72[…] “And this you'll have to erase.”“I turned around and saw a minder sweating in his dark woolen suit.
73Well, I thought, thank God for an idiot.“Departamento Especial de Assuntos Presideciais, Agente Kh**yev,” o [chekist] se apresentou.
74Decided to play along a bit: “May I keep them, they're a memory, I haven't been here in a long time…” - “No, you're not allowed to.Claro que falhei em lembrar o nome exato do departamento e do agente especial. Ele até me mostrou parcialmente sua identidade, escondendo-a cuidadosamente com a mão ao mesmo tempo. [
75We won't punish you, but do erase the picture.”…] “Qual é o problema, posso perguntar?” - “Você fotografou a Passagem Secreta (sic! - g60).
76“Okay,” I say and push the “delete” button with a sigh.” - “O que era tão secreto nela? Veja a quantidade de pessoas ao redor.
77“Good bye and all the best.”Não é permitido tirar fotos ou o quê?” - “Sim,claro.
78[…] I walked aside, took out the flash card, inserted another one.Mostre-me seus documentos. ” - Sem problemas.”
79You see, sergeant or whatever rank you are, you'll never become a general, nor will your boss - or you'd know how many seconds it takes to restore the erased picture.Dizer que ele ficou desapontado quando viu meus documentos não é nada. ” Onde está seu registro?” - “Eu cheguei no sábado, hoje é o primeiro dia de semana e devo me registrar dentro de três dias.”
80Here it is, this picture, Russia's Top Secret. […]“Então, mostre-me as fotos que você tirou, por favor.
81[you can view the original photo here]” - “Sim, com prazer.”
82I'm not going to write trite things of the “manuscripts don't burn” variety, because I have something to say on the main subject.Novyi Arbat estava nelas de ponta a ponta e em algum lugar no centro havia um ponto pequenininho - a comitiva presidencial. […] “E isso você terá de apagar.”
83Namely, that the erased photo was preceded by another one, without the motorcade on it, and neither the watchful chekist, nor his bosses found anything criminal about it:Bom, pensei, graças a Deus era um idiota. Decidi brincar mais um pouco: “Posso ficar com elas, são uma lembrança, não venho aqui faz muito tempo…” - “Não, você não tem permissão para isso.
84[original photo is here]Não puniremos você, mas apague a foto.”
85“Ok,” eu disse e apertei o botão “delete” com um suspiro.
86The current president should fear this picture a lot more, I believe - because sane people are likely to view it as an accusation.“Adeus e tudo de bom.” […] Caminhei para o lado, tirei o cartão de flash e inseri outro.
87Viu, sargento ou seja lá qual for sua posição, você nunca será um general, nem o seu chefe ou você saberia quantos segundos leva para se restaurar uma foto deletada.”
88A charge of dictatorship.Aqui está essa figura, o Grande Segredo Russo. [ …]
89Exposure of the [servants' mentality] of his own subordinates, which hasn't disappeared since the Soviet times.[veja a foto original aqui] Não direi coisas banais do tipo “manuscritos nao queimam”, pois tenho algo a dizer sobre o assunto principal.
90And this is not just about the president - it's as much about all the citizens who are prepared to tolerate this.Por exemplo, que a foto deletada era precedida de outra, sem a comitiva, e nem o vigilante chekist nem seus superiores viram qualquer indício criminoso nela: [foto original aqui]
91Essa foto deveria ser muito mais temida pelo presidente atual, creio eu - porque pessoas sãs poderiam vê-la como uma acusação.
92In the States, I live in [the middle of nowhere, a place rarely visited by the federal government officials].Uma acusação de regime ditatorial. Uma exposição da [mentalidade servil] de seus próprios subordinados, que não desapareceu desde os tempos soviéticos.
93The Republican administration doesn't even hold their election campaigns here - it's useless, considering California's [ultra-liberal political beliefs].E isso não tem a ver só com o presidente - tem muito a ver com todos os cidadãos que estão preparados para tolerar isso.
94Nevertheless, I happened to run into vice president Cheney once, at an intersection: I was moving towards his motorcade, and it was busy doing what everyone else was doing at the moment - waiting for green light.In the States, I live in [the middle of nowhere, a place rarely visited by the federal government officials]. The Republican administration doesn't even hold their election campaigns here - it's useless, considering California's [ultra-liberal political beliefs].
95Nevertheless, I happened to run into vice president Cheney once, at an intersection: I was moving towards his motorcade, and it was busy doing what everyone else was doing at the moment - waiting for green light.
96It came on, and everyone continued on their way.It came on, and everyone continued on their way.
97And if it happened some other way, if some official seriously believed that the people are there for the government and not vice versa, then he'd quickly be dealt with the way [anti-Republican] Californians had dealt with their Democratic governor - they made him resign, replacing him with [Arnold Schwarzenegger].
98Nos Estados Unidos, moro no [meio do nada, em um lugar raramente visitado pelos oficiais do governo federal].
99A administração republicana nem fazem campanhas por aqui, já que é inútil, se considerarmos os [ideais políticos ultra liberais] da Califórnia.
100No entanto, eu passei pelo vice-presidente Cheney certa vez, em uma encruzilhada: Eu vinha na direção de sua comitiva e ela estava ocupada fazendo o mesmo que todos os outros faziam no momento - esperando o sinal verde.
101And if it happened some other way, if some official seriously believed that the people are there for the government and not vice versa, then he'd quickly be dealt with the way [anti-Republican] Californians had dealt with their Democratic governor - they made him resign, replacing him with [Arnold Schwarzenegger]. […]Se fosse de alguma outra maneira, se algum agente acreditasse seriamente que as pessoas estão ali pelo governo e não o contrário, então ele seria rapidamente tratado da maneira [anti-republicana] que os californianos trataram seu governador democrata: eles o fariam renunciar e o substituiriam por [Arnold Schwarzenegger]. […]” (Texto original por Veronica Khokhlova)
102O artigo acima é uma tradução de um artigo original publicado no Global Voices Online.
103Esta tradução foi feita por um dos voluntários da equipe de tradução do Global Voices em Português, com o objetivo de divulgar diferentes vozes, diferentes pontos de vista.
104Se você quiser ser um voluntário traduzindo textos para o GV em Português, clique aqui.
105Se quiser participar traduzindo textos para outras línguas, clique aqui.